Auto waschen wie ein Profi | Niko Methode | AUTOLACKAFFEN

Many of you already know it, the Autolackaffen washing method. We have now refined and developed it for over a year. Now here is Volume 2. For all of you who don’t know it yet: What is the Autolackaffen washing method? The basic idea is that we want to walk around the car as little as possibleor do not want to walk around the car several times and that we want to be as gentle on the paintwork as possible. In our opinion, we achieve this by using a lot of gloves and not rinsing them out. We will now show you in detail how this works and what steps we take and explain what, how and why. In a separate video we’ll talk about which tools we use exactlyand why we use them. So stay tuned. This video and the next video will be exciting. The Autolackaffen washing method is actually suitable for all types of pollution. And depending on how heavily soiled a vehicle is, I need more or less gloves. The idea behind it is that I collect all my gloves in a bucket, and every time a glove is dirty, I replace it and change it with a new one, which means that I never come into contact with dirty water and avoid scratches. When I’m done with this washing method, I always throw my gloves inthe washing machine on and can continue. The first step of the washing method is always the rims. We showed you exactly how we do it in a separate video. We’ll link that to you here, you can have a look at it again. While the rim cleaner is working, I spray the entranceswith an all-purpose cleaner. We link you here which one we use and which other tools we use. And there’s another tool video next week that’s all about why we use which products. We make sure that we really spray all dirty areas. Entrances, trunk area, bonnet area, i. e. wherever a crack and edge is covered. After a short working time and after we have finished with the rims, we spray the rims and at the same time we rinse out the entrances. If the entrances are very dirty, you can open the door. Otherwise, as here, it is sufficient to use the high-pressure cleaner in the door gap and to rinse it off. You can see beautifully down here how all the foam runs out with the dirt. This is wonderfully sufficient for almost all types of soiling. If it is very dirty, watch the video „Clean entrances“ from us again. We’ll go into detail again here about what to look out for when you check with open doors. After the entrances we use our pre-cleaner, and here we also use an all-purpose cleaner in the foam gun, i. e. as snow foam. This has the advantage that we simply have a longer adhesion to the surface and apply more material. This foam coincides with the time of action, i. e. we have a lot of material that can act on this surface before it flows off. The perfect concentration in my opinion is always: the foam must be firm at the beginning and start to drain after less than a minute. Then I have the perfect mix of exposure time and dirt release behavior without the foam drying. While the foam is working, I would finish setting up my bucket. That means I fill it with my shampoo of choice, put my wash gloves in, can either use chenille microfiber gloves, so-called shag gloves,or normal microfiber long-pile gloves, or a mixture of the two, as we do here. As I said, we use half half. Long-pile and chenille gloves, because the purpose for both of themis useful for us. We’ll tell you which one we use for which area. After the exposure time – you can see this from the fact that the foam has simply run downor ideally you have observed the exposure time of the manufacturer of the all-purpose cleaner -we rinse the pre- cleaner thoroughly from abovewith a high-pressure cleaner. The right prewash is really half the battle here. If I make sure that my high-pressure cleaner really reaches all corners from all possible angles, rinsing off hidden cracks, then I have really removed all the coarse sand and minimized my risk of scratching many times over, because now everything should be solid particles that can later be removed, so that if possible only sticky dirt remains that can no longer scratch with the microfiber glove. Therefore: take the time to rinse really thoroughly before I start with the laundering, now I go with the first glove, the shaggy glove,through all of the beginning. As a rule, a shaggy glove is sufficient for all entrances. You always have to see how dirty they are. Of course, if they are very dirty and sandy, take two or as many as you need. As I said: I take care of the entrances, the trunk and also the bonnet on the outside, as well as the fuel cap from the inside. Here it is really important to get into the edges of the hinges with the shag. You really get there with the shag. If you don’t reach a corner, you can use a brush, but in our experience, these shags are wonderfully enough because they are really good oneswith dirt-removing ability that get into the deepest cracks if you can find your way around a bit. Before washing, we use the shampoo water solution again. We use the same shampoo here as in the bucket. Of course, this increases the cleaning effect again because I let the cleaner work directly on the paint. Secondly, I increase the protection factor because I have more sliding action. That means I reduce the scratching again and I have a small optical indicator of where I have already washed and where I have not. It always helps quite well. We wash the upper area of ​​the vehicle with a long-pile glove. And thanks to the Autolackaffen washing method, I do not have to wash the entire car to wash the upper area, but in between I can simply change my gloves and take a shaggy glove for the lower dirty areas. I put my glove to one side so that I can usethe clean side again later, but not in the bucket. That is the crux of the matter here. And then I take my shag glove to clean the cracks and edges as well as the lower door areasor the lower areas in general. Because there is a lot of dirt. Since the glove can show its great strength and I can also reach the bottom edgewash directly. Because what I am now recording here and even the wheel arch as you see, no longer ends up in the bucket. I then put it up in my Buckenizer or in a separate bucket so that I know which side is still clean. If I have another one, if not, it comes straight to the side of the laundry and can now take my glove straight from here and continue washing. Go on. As I said: the chenille glove is super suitable for cracks and edges. Because of these things, which lie in every corner, I don’t even need a brush for most vehicles . Applications such as the Porsche emblem and the Warben can also be cleaned wonderfully with chenille. You can see that here by the foam. I usually don’t need a brush. Whoever would like to use it can do it. The advantage of such a microfiber chenille is that it is gentlerthan such a brush fiber. So I wash my way around the whole car. If a glove is dirty on both sides, I put it aside in a bucket. And in the end, when I’m through with the laundry, I quickly hit the washing machine. I use the default washing program, that is enough in combination with that in the glovecontained shampoo to clean it again and make it fit for the next wash. In the end, I even have two gloves left in the car. I would just leave it in for the next wash or I would take it out, hang it on the line and use it again the next day. If I still have a crack that I couldn’t get my shag in, I can of course finish it upagain with a brush. As I said: It is usually not necessary, but here is the hint. We use running water from the garden hose for rinsing. This has the advantage that it really simply rinses off the foam. It’s easier than with the high-pressure cleaner and I can also rinse out the entrances. This is wonderfully suitable. We love to do that. And we have demineralized water on this hose, which reduces the limescale. The first step in the drying process is drying with compressed air. That means I take a compressed air gun here and dry the entrances, especially the door rebates. Because I will get there later and you know exactly how ugly it looks when there are water stains, in order to dry the edges and folds in the second step, which I will not be able to achieve later with the dry cloth. These are in particular the window strips, the mirror from all sides. You know, it still drips out and all sorts of things where water gathers and stays in there due to the capillary effect. We dry it in advance, before we then dry the vehicle to the last step with a high-quality drying cloththat has an appropriate size, or with several small ones. We use a spray seal, exactly the Brilliant Shine Detailer. This has several advantages. On the one hand, I increase the water absorption capacity of the drying cloth. Secondly, I break the surface tension of the water, and thirdly, I apply a high-quality spray sealer during the drying process. That makes it more shiny, it is a nicer result and a small on-top for the customer without it making me more work. It’s really a standard process for me if we don’t polish a car. Always dry with BSD, because the drying process is the same. It makes it a lot easier. The only thing I have to pay attention to: I really have to actively wipe all areas with the dry cloth. Just pulling it over, as you sometimes know from the hood, is not enough, because that could give streaks. But that’s not a problem. When I have finished painting, I dry the entrances thoroughly. I can use the same drying cloth. If you have a little handling or problems, you can also take a small one. But actually it works wonderfully with a dry cloth. I can also use BSD for unpainted plastic areas, such as the front trunk cover . That makes a great finish. This makes the plastics beautifully matt and shines in the end. It looks like it’s a new car, I think, and works great. And even a foam head like that can be removed with one swipe. That was the Autolackaffen washing method. Write down in the comments how you prefer to wash a car. The next video continues with the tools for the Autolackaffen washing method. We’ll see you then, bye.